Kiko’s is a pretty little neighborhood place that’s always ho-hummed along without doing much to call attention to itself. Until chef Richard Huang took over as proprietor.
Haung knew just what the place needed – he’d been behind the sushi bar as an employee under the previous ownership. His first re-orchestration replaced classical background music with something more upbeat. Then came menu tweaking.
Besides a line up of creative new sushi and some killer appetizers, Thai food (prepared by his wife, chef Rattana Huang) were added to round out the Asian theme and beckon new appetites – all served on sparkling new dishware.
Evocative food often comes in small packages. Starting with a pleasantly light rice paper roll filled with crab, cucumbers, lettuce, cooked shrimp and fresh strawberries ($8) proves the point. The roll is cut into 1-inch pieces so each can stand on end to become part of a group in the center of a bowl. A pool of sunomono sauce that looks clear but tastes tart/sweet surrounds the rolls.
Anyone into raw shouldn’t miss the pagodalike Tokyo tower ($9.95). Construction starts with glistening diced tuna in a wildly successful marriage of avocado, scallions and fish eggs. The mixture is layered on a stack of lightly salted spinach wonton chips so fresh they shatter. Think of them as a sophisticated cousin to the best nachos you ever ate. Spicy conch or octopus ($9) delivers easy-to-chew protein endowed with a signature fiery sauce, while balsamic tuna marinated in Thai basil sauce ($11.50) is refreshingly different with lightly-seared tuna staged with capers and aged balsamic.
Somewhere in the mix do squeeze in a bowl of Asian comfort food. The miso soup ($2.20) is especially tasty or try tom kar pla ($5). This humble soup of coconut milk mixed with fish stock to lighten the load, includes scallions, straw mushrooms, fresh tomatoes and sliced white fish (usually wahoo) that keeps its firm texture despite being submerged in liquid.
As much as I wanted to sample the Thai entrees, I was mesmerized by the new rolls. Huang makes some sushi Hako style (boxed pressed), a sushi-making style from Osaka, Japan. Instead of being made with hands, it’s pressed into a square or rectangular shaped sushi box called an oshigata. The box is first partially filled with sushi rice. The other ingredients go in next (seasoned eel and bonito flakes for our order), then more rice. The contents are compressed with the box lid until it turns into a big block of sushi, then it’s unmolded and cut into smaller pieces for serving. A topping is often added – thin sliced avocado on this one. Look for it under the name “eel square pan.” At $12, it’s well worth your time.
A “fish burned roll” ($12) might sound like an unfortunate cooking error, but it’s actually lovely fresh wahoo bundled with spicy sriracha sauce, avocado, crab, and refreshing cilantro, served inside out with tuna on top.
Shop further into the list of chef specialty rolls and your rewards could be a wonderful mango tango roll ($10). The fresh salmon tucked with avocado, served inside out with a bright cap of fresh mango and crunchy spinach flakes creates eye-catching jewel tones.
Just a few chopstick clicks and you’ll understand why the neighborhood is rooting for this fresh face on the restaurant scene. I can hardly wait to go back and sample the Thai entrees.
Please call to confirm hours, prices, menu items and facilities. For review consideration, fax a current menu that includes the name and address of restaurant to 954-356-4386 or send to Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293.
Write to dining correspondent Judith Stocks at or in care of the Sun-Sentinel.
INFORMATIONAL BOX:
*** 1/2 (OUT OF 4)
Cuisine: Japanese/Thai
801 S. University Drive,
Plantation
954-473-0077
Cost: inexpensive
Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V
Hours: lunch, dinner daily
Reservations: not necessary
Bar: beer, wine, sake
Sound level: quiet
Smoking: prohibited
Children’s facilities: boosters, high chairs
Wheelchair accessible: yes
