First impression:
The aroma of the wood-fired grill sets an Old World tone. While seafood takes up a big part of the menu, the meze selection is what will keep me coming back.
Background:
Taverna Kyma comes from the same group that brought South Florida Taverna Opa, Giorgio’s Grill and Giorgio’s Bistro and Market.
Ambience:
Nice. Even if the obligatory bare wooden tables, white walls and framed images of Greece call to mind every Greek restaurant cliche.
Starters:
Appetizer selections are divided into several categories and altogether make for a perfect shareable meal: cold meze, hot meze, seafood meze, vegetable meze, saganaki and salads. Tzatziki ($4), the dip of yogurt, cucumber, garlic and dill, is so delicious that four of us ending up asking for a second order. Stuffed grape leaves or dolmades ($5), spinach pie or spanakopita ($5) and lamb ribs ($7) were all good. But even better is the crispy zucchini ($6), lightly breaded rounds that are fried and topped with cheese and served with garlic potato spread. Octopus ($10) is grilled and then served in a lemon sauce. We also split very fresh horiatiki ($7), the Greek salad that’s made with everything but lettuce: tomatoes, cucumbers, onions peppers, olives and feta and dressed with olive oil, vinegar and oregano.
Entree excellence:
Lamb chops ($24) are marinated in herbs and garlic and come off the grill tender and flavorful. They’re served with roasted potatoes and, on one night we dined, roasted yellow squash and green beans. Classic lamb shank ($17) and stuffed peppers ($13) are here. As is excellent pastitsio($11) or Greek lasagna, layers of macaroni, seasoned ground beef and bechamel.
Sweet!:
Where do they buy the thick and creamy yogurt that’s then very simply topped with honey and walnuts ($5)? Also very good was cheesecake ($6) made in Giorgio’s bakery and topped with cherry preserves. Even baklava ($4) stood out for the generous ratio of walnuts-to-phyllo.
Service:
Efficient. But there were almost too many bus boys interrupting our conversation.
Dining deal:
Every night before 8 through October, Kyma offers specially priced three-course meals. Entree prices include soup or salad, dessert and tea or coffee. Among the 14 entrees are stuffed peppers ($12.95), lamb shank ($17.95), filet of sole ($15.95) and a gyro platter ($13.95).
6298 N. Federal Highway, Boca Raton
561-994-2828
Cuisine:
Greek
Cost:
moderate-expensive
Hours:
lunch weekdays, dinner daily
Reservations:
accepted
Credit cards:
AE, MC, V
Bar:
full service
Sound level:
moderate
Outside smoking:
yes
For kids:
boosters, high chairs
Wheelchair accessible:
yes
– John Tanasychuk
Contact dining correspondent John Tanasychuk at
or write to him in care of Sun Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301.
